La Marine is highlighted with Three Stars in the MICHELIN Guide France 2023
- Four additional restaurants are awarded Two MICHELIN Stars, and 39 additional establishments receive One MICHELIN Star
- The 2023 vintage celebrates a French gastronomy brimful of vitality, many young talents and committed, sustainable kitchens, rooted in their regions
- Eight additional restaurants’ commitments to sustainable gastronomy are recognized with the MICHELIN Green Star
- The MICHELIN Guide honors various restaurant professions with its Special Awards
Michelin is pleased to present the 2023 restaurant selection of the MICHELIN Guide France. They were revealed at an exceptional ceremony at the Strasbourg Music and Congress Center in Alsace. It was attended by restaurant owners and professionals from more than 500 Michelin-Star Restaurants in France and Europe. The award-winners include one additional Three MICHELIN Star restaurant, four additional two MICHELIN Star restaurants, 39 additional One MICHELIN Star restaurants, and eight additional MICHELIN Green Star restaurants.
In total, the 2023 MICHELIN Guide France restaurant selection includes 630 MICHELIN-Star Restaurants: 29 Three MICHELIN Star restaurants, 75 Two MICHELIN Star restaurants, and 526 One MICHELIN Star restaurants throughout France.
“With 44 additional MICHELIN Star Restaurants, including 37 outside the Paris metropolitan area, the 2023 selection confirms that excellence, creativity and commitment abound in the world of French gastronomy. They are borne up by talents – often young talents – who take initiatives and reveal their potential, and each restaurant fully reflects the terroir in which it is established. The chefs at their helm provide distinctive culinary experiences and foster economic, human and cultural connections,” remarks Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the MICHELIN Guides.
“Thanks to Alexandre and Céline Couillon and their creation of a gastronomic destination, the definition of a Three MICHELIN Star restaurant is felt more vibrantly now than ever. La Marine ‘is worth the detour’ because it sweeps us away to the island of Noirmoutier and leaves us forever changed. The restaurant team had already been highlighted with the MICHELIN Green Star in recognition of its remarkable eco-responsible commitment, and the restaurant team plays out a resplendent symphony.”
La Marine is awarded Three Stars
Tucked away on the tip of the island of Noirmoutier, in the cove of L’Herbaudière, La Marine asserts itself as one of the very best restaurants in France with three MICHELIN Stars. An authentic exploration of the ocean and edible coastal plants, Chef Alexandre Couillon’s cookery brings a unique culinary approach to the French gastronomic landscape. Streamlined and fully rooted in this terroir, the chef’s creations vary throughout the seasons with the plants gathered along the shore and fresh seafood from Noirmoutier fish market. The tastes are striking and bold, the produce quality is exceptional, and the cooking methods – where braising predominates – are exacting. Among the dishes that impressed the Guide’s inspectors, the “braised artisanally-fished mackerel, beetroot and parsley foam” and the “crispy buckwheat dessert, caramel mousse, candied citrus fruit and sea lettuce sorbet” are among the monuments to modern cuisine. The service is orchestrated by the chef’s spouse, Céline Couillon, who demonstrates precision, forethought and care. These virtues are essential in raising awareness about the pioneering philosophy of this sustainable establishment which has enjoyed a MICHELIN Green Star since 2020.
In total, the MICHELIN Guide recommends 29 Three MICHELIN Star restaurants.
Four additional restaurants highlighted with Two MICHELIN Stars
In Aumont-Aubrac, at the heart of Aubrac, Cyril Attrazic is awarded Two MICHELIN Stars for his eponymous restaurant. As part of the family-run hotel-restaurant founded by the chef’s grandmother, this atypical, authentic establishment – which also holds a MICHELIN Green Star – elevates the essence of the Lozère terroir and territory to the highest gourmet level. The “Aubrac beef in its ecosystem” – beef garnished with four condiments prepared using the plants that form the basis of the animal’s natural diet – is accompanied by the traditional aligot, perfectly illustrating the chef’s sustainable philosophy, creative flair, and generous spirit.
In Busnes, in the Pas-de-Calais, Christophe Dufossé only joined the Château de Beaulieu a year-and-a-half ago, but he is already being honored with Two MICHELIN Stars. At the heart of this charming property, which sprawls within a wooded park, the chef – who defines himself as a “peasant cook” – offers surf-and-turf cuisine in a tribute to the terroirs of the Nord and the produce of the vegetable garden that he continues to develop. Each dish is delicately prepared, revealing remarkable sauce-making skills. The establishment’s commitment to more sustainable gastronomy is also highlighted by a MICHELIN Green Star.
In Saint-Rémy, the cuisine orchestrated by Cédric Burtin for L’Amaryllis focuses on local produce, taking a truly contemporary view of the chef’s native Burgundy. Like each expertly and deliciously revisited Burgundian hors-d’oeuvre, each dish is sincere and respectful of the terroir while keeping pace with the times. Here, too, the sauces, jus and vinaigrettes are perfectly executed, from the great French classics to creations with subtle exotic touches, such as the remarkable cumin-and-voatsiperifery-pepper sauce.
Rounding out the selection is L’Auberge de Montmin in Talloires-Montmin, Haute-Savoie, rising to the highest gastronomical heights. Perched 3,763 feet up on Col de la Forclaz, Chef Florian Favario and his spouse Sandrine welcome guests to a convivial, secluded setting. Local products and garden produce are magnificently handled and garnished with a profusion of herbs and wild plants. Just four years after opening the restaurant, the chef marks this return to his native village with a brilliantly accomplished menu, clearly finding fulfillment in the concoction of fun, high-impact creations, as demonstrated by the “marrow candle” accompanied by a pot-au-feu and a revisited onion soup. This restaurant also makes exemplary efforts in favor of sustainable gastronomy which are honored by a MICHELIN Green Star.
In addition to these four newly recognized establishments, the 2023 MICHELIN Guide France recommends 75 Two MICHELIN Star restaurants.
39 restaurants are newly highlighted with One MICHELIN Star
The MICHELIN Guide inspectors probed into the villages and cities of France, from north to south and from east to west, seeking out the very best restaurants. They have freshly added 39 establishments to the 2023 selection, each awarded One MICHELIN Star.
The Ile-de-France is the leader of the French regions with the most newly-recognized restaurants this year, adding seven new Michelin-Star Restaurants to its credit. Among them, many are managed by young up-and-coming heads-of-restaurant: Anona (Paris 17th arrondissement), run by Thibaut Spiwack; Villa9Trois (Montreuil), overseen by the Breton Camille Saint-M’Leux; and the eponymous restaurant of Malory Gabsi (Paris 17th arrondissement). Omar Dhiab (Paris 1st arrondissement) and Terumitsu Saito, of the restaurant Ōrtensia (Paris 16th arrondissement), add a touch of exoticism – respectively Egyptian and Japanese – to the gastronomic landscape of Paris. In the 8th arrondissement, Martino Ruggieri demonstrates noteworthy cookery at his Maison Ruggieri, while Pascal Barbot receives his first MICHELIN Star directly upon the reopening of his restaurant Astrance in the 16th arrondissement.
In Nouvelle-Aquitaine, as well as in the Pays de la Loire, five new establishments are also recognized. In Bordeaux (33), Ressources not only offers the excellent cuisine of Tanguy Laviale, but also an impressive wine list offering more than 700 options. In Mont-de-Marsan (40), at La Table Mirasol, Phillipe Lagraula skillfully mingles his Landes terroir with exotic – particularly Peruvian – touches, a reference to the native country of his wife, Daniela, who supervises the service. In Puymoyen, Charente (16), Aumì is a newly-opened establishment run by a talented young couple. Mickaël Clautour (in the kitchen) and Laura Legeay (in the dining room) offering up a single uncompromisingly excellent multi-course meal which changes each month. In La Roche-sur-Yon (85), at the Les Reflets restaurant, the modern cuisine of the Welsh chef Nathan Cretney – who has previously been awarded a Bib Gourmand – rises to a new level with One MICHELIN Star. At Les Cadets in Nantes (44), the Bernabé brothers – Charles the chef and Tristan the sommelier – join their associate Lucas Badé to propose a precise, seasonal, local selection that offers excellent value for money.
In Occitania and in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, the Guide’s inspectors were won over by four additional establishments respectively. La Villa Pinewood, in Payren-Augmentel (81), is something of a unicorn among the selection. In this oeno-gastronomic inn run by the couple Thomas and Anne Cabrol, guests discover creative, largely plant-based cookery as they are immersed in the establishment’s sustainable commitments. For example, throughout the meal, images of the farmers and gatherers who provide the ingredients stream past on a screen. In Nîmes (30), the Beninese-born, self-taught chef Georgiana Viou also receives One MICHELIN Star for her restaurant, Rouge, where she concocts a fusion of Mediterranean and African flavors. In Lyon (69), La Mutinerie – run by Chef Nicolas Seibold – stands out for its modern, creative and plant-based cuisine.
Three new restaurants in each of the following regions are also highlighted with a MICHELIN Star: Hauts-de-France, Centre-Val de Loire, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, and Grand Est. The MICHELIN Guide inspectors were particularly impressed by the atypical cookery – locally sourced yet mingled with Asian flavors – of Félix and Nidta Robert’s restaurant Arborescence. The experience unfolds within a former textile castle in Croix (59), and it reflects the globe-trotting characters of the duo. One MICHELIN Star is restored to the chef-and-pastry-chef couple Diego Delbecq and Camille Pailleau after they successfully relocated their restaurant Rozó to a former printing office in Marcq-en-Barœul (59). In Guainville (28), Chef Romain Meder has opened the restaurant Les Chemins – Domaine de Primard in the former home of Catherine Deneuve. His meals are inspired by Naturalité, a book that he assisted Alain Ducasse in developing at Plaza Athénée. In Loches (37), Clément Dumont (in the kitchen) and Océane Guillot (in the dining room) thrill guests with dishes that showcase the Loire terroir and feature vegetables from their own garden. In La Ciotat (13), the chef Yuichiro and the pastry chef Mika Shimatani form a Japanese couple who once worked under Alexandre Mazzia, among other prestigious chefs. At Couleurs de Shimatani, they offer an immersion in Mediterranean cookery enhanced by Japanese touches. They alone run the restaurant, which exclusively welcomes guests for lunch. In Strasbourg (67), another entrepreneurial and gastronomic success is the restaurant de:ja, recently opened by Chef David Degoursy and his wife, the pastry chef Jeanne Satori. The two self-taught chefs – the former a literary graduate, the latter a sustainable development alumnus – have developed a particularly creative, eco-responsible, conceptual approach. For example, each menu is named after one of the four harvesting methods that humans have used throughout history – “Cueillette” (Gathering), “Vendange” (Grape Harvest), “Moisson” (Crop Harvest) and “Fenaison” (Haymaking) –, and each celebrates the “living produce” which the chefs source locally.
In Brittany, two new restaurants are also highlighted: La Gouesnière – Maison Tirel-Guérin at La Gouesnière (35) and La Table des Pères – Domaine du Château des Pères in Piré-Chancé (35). The former is a traditional restaurant that is already well-known regionally. Its MICHELIN Star is being restored following the arrival of Chef Thomas Vonderscher. The latter is located in an atypical estate featuring a classical 18th-century castle, a 19th-century water tower, a futuristic hotel made up of bubble-shaped rooms mounted on the branches of a metal structure… and a circular restaurant with a grass-covered roof like a UFO that has landed in the middle of a vegetable garden. There, Chef Jérôme Jouadé delivers exquisite cuisine, liberally inspired by Brittany and home-grown produce.
In total, the MICHELIN Guide recommends 526 One MICHELIN Star restaurants.
The sustainable commitments of eight restaurants newly recognized by a MICHELIN Green Star
For the fourth consecutive year, the MICHELIN Green Star promotes the efforts of inspiring, pioneering restaurants that are fully invested in more sustainable gastronomy.
In 2023, eight additional restaurants join the MICHELIN Green Star selection because they give pride of place to eco-responsibility in their offerings and operations.
While each of these establishments represents a unique approach and initiative, and while each is shaped by its own limitations and scope of action, all share the same exceptional level of ambition.
“At the cutting edge of this movement promoting more sustainable gastronomy, MICHELIN Green Star establishments – including eight which are joining the selection this year – continue to inspire and make an important contribution to the future of dining in France, Europe, and the entire world,” states Gwendal Poullennec.
The newly-honored establishments bring the number of restaurants awarded the MICHELIN Green Star to a total of 90: Le Château de Beaulieu-Christophe Duffosé in Busnes (62); de:ja in Strasbourg (67); Jardin Secret in Cotignac (83); La Bòria in Veryas (07); Le Doyenné in Saint-Vrain (91); Domaine de Primard (28); Ruche in Gambais (78); and Villa Pinewood in Payrin-Augmontel (81).
Servers, Sommeliers and Pastry Chefs: the MICHELIN Guide is committed to promoting excellence in diverse restaurant professions and forms of know-how
During this time of “vocational crisis” and difficulties in hiring, the MICHELIN Guide renews its commitment to showcase the various professions and forms of know-how that contribute to memorable experiences at fine restaurants. This year, it presents two new professional awards for the sommelier and server vocations, recognizes the pastry achievements of seven additional establishments, and encourages youth and transmission with two other special awards.
Gaby Benicio and Cyril Kocher, who are respectively the sommeliers of the MICHELIN-Star Restaurant Äponem – Auberge du Presbytère in Vailhan (34) and the MICHELIN Green Star restaurant Thierry Schwartz – Le Restaurant in Obernai (67), receive the 2023 MICHELIN Sommelier Award. Both self-taught wine specialists – the former a doctor of sociology and a photographer, the latter originally destined to become a cook – share a vision of their profession that is sensitive, enthusiastic, and very committed. For example, Gaby Benicio freely speaks of transcendent moments of grace when tasting a wine, while Cyril Kocher describes himself as a wine tourist whose mission is to connect a producer with a consumer. Passionate guardians of naturally-made wines and unusual yet precise food-and-wine pairs, Gaby Benicio and Cyril Kocher also both build close relationships with the wine-makers. Moreover, they have both reconsidered and updated the way they connect with their clients, steering clear of technical or ritualistic demonstrations to place enjoyment and discovery at the heart of every interaction.
The MICHELIN Service Award is presented to Claire Sonnet of the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant of L’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco, and to Frédéric Rouen of the L’Alter-Native restaurant in Béziers (34). Claire Sonnet went into the service and table arts profession after discovering the vocation while pursuing a bachelor’s degree in psychology, and she has become an exemplary professional with a brilliant career. With a taste for human interaction and for sharing her expertise, she has been the director of the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant at L’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco for more than four years. She strives daily to make the uniqueness of each client the alpha and the omega of her approach. As for Frédéric Rouen, he came to live in Béziers in the summer of 2021 after a career which took him through great Parisian establishments and palace restaurants. Elegant, pleasant, and communicably serene, Frédéric Rouen stands out for his erudition and his determination to make every moment at the table a unique experience.
Seven new establishments join Passion Dessert. This special selection, chosen by the MICHELIN Guide inspectors, is supported by Valrhona. It includes a total of 52 establishments that elevate desserts and the confectionery arts to the highest gourmet level. Led by talented pastry chefs who renew the great classics or bring desserts into as-of-yet-unexplored territory, the seven new Passion Dessert establishments are: Flocons de Sel (Aurélie Collomb-Clerc) in Megève; Le Baudelaire (Pierre-Jean Quinonero) in Paris; Le Jules Verne (Germain Decreton) in Paris; Les Explorateurs – Hôtel Pashmina (Sébastien Deléglise) in Val Thorens; Mirazur (Marius Dufay) in Menton; Rouge (François Josse) in Nîmes; and Le Bois sans Feuilles (César Troisgros and Romain Puybarbeau) in Ouches.
The MICHELIN Guide is also committed to acknowledging and encouraging the emergence of young talents through its MICHELIN Young Chef Award. In 2023, this honor is granted to Chef Mallory Gabsi, whose first eponymous restaurant – which just opened in 2022 – is also being highlighted with a first MICHELIN Star this year. At barely 26 years of age, this young, determined Belgian has worked under Yves Mattagne, and he stands for a casual approach to gastronomy with what is already a very distinctive cuisine.
The MICHELIN Mentor Chef Award, presented by Blancpain, goes to Michel Troisgros in recognition of his avant-garde conversion of the Troisgros establishment, with locations from Ouches to Roanne; for passing along his expertise to his sons César and Léo; and for his dedication to fostering a number of talents throughout his career. From Jacques Decoret (Maison Decoret in Vichy) to Félix and Nidta Robert (Arborescence in Croix), from Samuel Victori (Les Agitateurs in Nice) to Philippe Lagraula ( La Table Mirasol in Mont-de-Marsan), and from Frédéric Doucet (Frédéric Doucet in Charolles) to Nicolas Coutand (Les Genêts in Brem-sur-Mer), Michel Troisgros has guided, trained and encouraged a myriad of professionals who have become references today on the French gastronomy scene.
The Bib Gourmand recognizes the excellent value-for-money of an additional 49 restaurants
As announced on February 6th, 49 restaurants are newly joining the Bib Gourmand selection of the 2023 MICHELIN Guide France. Located throughout France, these establishments showcase their regional terroirs or propose interesting fusion cuisine concepts.
In total, 419 restaurants are acclaimed by the MICHELIN Guide inspectors. Each offers excellent value-for-money, proposing at least one full meal at lunch and dinner at the maximum price of approximately forty euros.
The 2023 MICHELIN Guide France will be available at all the best French bookstores beginning on Friday, March 10th.
The full recommendations of the 2023 MICHELIN Guide France may also be consulted on the MICHELIN Guide website or its iOS or Android application. On these platforms, users may access all the MICHELIN Guide hotel and restaurant selections worldwide and enjoy online reservation services.
All the hotels recommended in the Guide are selected for their unique style, service and character (with packages to suit all budgets) and can be reserved directly on the MICHELIN Guide website and application.
In France, among the most stunning hotels and accommodation, there are trailblazers of sustainability such as Brach Paris, establishments from the “Plus” collection, including Le Domaine des Etangs in Massignac and La Villa La Coste in Provence, Alpine chalets like Le M in Megève, or the wonderful Château Voltaire in Paris.
The 2023 MICHELIN Guide France at a glance:
2,962 recommended restaurants, including:
- 29 restaurants, including 1 addition;
- 75 restaurants, including 4 additions;
- 526 restaurants, including 39 additions;
- 90 restaurants, including 8 additions;
- 419 One Bib Gourmand restaurants, including 49 additions.